How do I frame a concrete brick wall while remodeling an old house?
January 18, 2009 by Builder Wong
Filed under Decorating & Remodeling
We have been in a routine of remodeling an aged petrify section residence after a glow as well as glow hose flood. In sequence to move a residence up to formula you have to rewire a couple of walls as well as supplement energy receptacles. We additionally wish to supplement insulation. Our thought was to put normal 2X4 framed walls in front of a aged petrify walls. This approach you could handle as well as isolate a aged house. What is a most appropriate approach to insert a 2×4 wall to a aged petrify wall? This additionally all has to encounter code.
By: riflespinner2000
By: riflespinner2000
If you have a nice cordless drill you can makeover any concrete wall. All you need is a
friend, some concrete screws 2″3/4(Tapcons work well), a concrete drill bit(comes with
the box of screws), and some treated 2x4s.(cedar or pine)…
Here’s what you are going to do…
First you will be anchoring your 2x4s to the wall running horizontally. One will be attached near the top and one near the bottom.It is important to make sure your 2x4s are running level along the wall. You can use an
existing mortar line or just use a level and make marks on the wall where you are going
to attach your 2x4s.
1) Drill hole through your 2×4 into base material using the drill bit provided with the
screws. The depth of the hole must be at least 1/4″ deeper than the concrete screw
embedment2) Insert point of concrete screw into hole and drive screw in using a nut drive or #3 bit
tip. Do not over torque the screw.
3) Fasten three or four screws in each 8′ 2×4. This will be plenty.
4) Once you have fastened your 2x4s along the length of the wall you can refer back to step one and continue bracing the 2×4′s until you have the wall ready to sheetrock.
Well code is different for different regions. You shouldn’t attach the 2×4 wall (known as a furring wall in this case) to the concrete at all. You should actually leave about a 1/2″ air space between the furring wall and the concrete wall to prevent any moisture from entering the insulation/wood from the concrete.
As far as fastening, nail through the bottom plate into the floor.
You’ll also need a vapour barrier, depending on your local building code, which should be placed on the warm side of the insulation – relevant to your climate. 6 mil polyurethane is the standard material for this.
There is no reason to attach the framed wall to the concrete. You can simply build a wall that runs from the floor to the joists above (you may need to add blocking to catch the top plate if the wall runs parallel to the joists). If the floor is concrete, use a pressure treated bottom plate. Snap a chalk line on the floor where you want the wall. Measure up to the bottom of the joists (or blocking), subtract 3″, and cut your studs to this length. When you stand the wall, anchor the bottom along the line, then check the wall for plumb at several points. Nail the top plate to the joists and you are done. Hope this helps.